Friday 31 January 2014

January 26, 2014

Our first few days in Marsh Harbour have been used to restock the boat and explore the town.  We are finding pricing of some items different, such as paper towel $4.00 and up a single roll, bakery bread is cheaper than grocery store bread, dairy products are the same or cheaper than back home and $15.00 will buy you the 1.5 liter size of Bahamas Rum.  

When we were planning our trip south to the Bahamas, it was highly recommended that we become members of the Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club.  The discounts that are available to members of this club are significant throughout the Bahamas.  Our first actual club function was Souper Bowl 11, which was a competition among ladies in the club who had made their favourite soup recipe.  After the judging, everybody got to sample the different soups, along with the salad and dessert, making it a fun and delicious meal.  Last year’s competition, Souper Bowl 1, was among the guys in the club.  Souper Bowl 111, next year will pit the winning ladies against the winners of Souper Bowl 1.  

After six days of being anchored in Marsh Harbour, we were getting anxious to explore other parts of the Abacos.  The weather forecast for the following week was for strong westerly winds, which is unusual and a lot of the anchorages don’t provide you good protection from this direction.  One anchorage that would provide us protection from these winds, was Treasure Cay.  We lifted the anchor Friday morning and began a 9 mile journey north to Treasure Cay.  On our way we caught up to our friends on ‘Quality Time’ and took the opportunity to get pictures of each others’ boats.  Treasure Cay is a very upscale resort community, but you wouldn’t know it by the channel markers into the harbour.  The water is extremely clear and shallow and curves around a sand bar.  This is marked by a series of wooden poles buried into the channel bed, to indicate the difference between port and starboard, they have hung ‘slow moving vehicle signs’ on the port sides.  When we had dropped the anchor and looked around, we found quite a few boats that we knew.

The beach at Treasure Cay is rated as one of the top ten beaches in the world and we would agree.  The sand is a fine white colour with the texture of flour and the water is a beautiful turquoise colour.  The water is shallow way out into the Sea of Abaco and from the beach we can see Whale Cay where we had to go out into the Atlantic to reach the southern part of the Sea.  

We had been hearing about the Bahamian music called Rake and Scrape.  Sunday afternoon Brown Tip, a local favourite, was playing at the Coco Beach Bar and Restaurant.  We went to listen.  This performance of Rake and Scrape consisted of two guys singing to taped music, while playing the moroccos and rubbing the saw blade with a screwdriver.  It was a bit over-rated but the guys had nice voices so it sounded okay.  

Another boater had told us about the Bahamian version of a lunch truck which showed up around noon near the resort property.  Monday we decided to splurge and try it for lunch.  We walked down the road, through a round-about, to a gravel parking lot near a small public school.  We arrived just before 12:00 and were the only people standing in the middle of nowhere, waiting for the lunch truck.  At 12:15 a pick up truck pulling an open trailer, with propane cookers on the back, pulled in.  Within minutes cars and trucks started arriving as if they knew that 12:00 meant 12:15 Bahamian time.  For $5.00 you got pork chop, chicken or fish if they had not run out of them served on a bed of peas and rice ( Bahamian answer to french fries) and another side such as plantain or pasta salad.  There was no place to sit as everyone else had driven to the spot, we ended up sitting on an electrical box in front of the school.  It was very good and neither of us were able to finish.

The weather is starting to get better and the winds are starting to die down (below 20 knots) and we are getting anxious to leave Treasure Cay.  Thursday the winds drop to less than 6 knots and we start heading south back to Marsh Harbour.  We have to motor all the way but that is ok as the water is flat calm and we are able to see the bottom as we go.  We arrived back in the early afternoon in time to get ready for a steak dinner at a local Marina called the Jib Room.  This was sponsored by the Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club - more great food and an opportunity to meet new boaters.  We like this club.  

We decided to join 2 other boats that were going to a place called Tahiti Beach.  This is a beautiful anchorage  on a beach that just looks really tropical and South Pacific like.  We left the anchorage in Marsh Harbour just before lunch, the winds were light, the Sea of Abaco was flat and calm so we started motoring south.  The visibility in the water was just incredible, we saw a shark, a turtle, all kinds of fish and many starfish laying on the bottom of the sea.  We joined the other 2 boats for a nice pasta dinner and planning session for the next day.  It was decided that the girls were going to explore the beaches for shells and beach glass, and the guys were going to go looking for fish, conch and lobster.  


Time 2 Go heading to Treasure Cay

Slow moving vehicles signs used for the red channel
 markers and a sandbar to go around

Sunset - Treasure Cay anchorage 

Treasure Cay Beach - one of the top 10 beaches in the world

Rake and Scrape superstars Brown Tip performing

Starfish

Tahiti Beach on south end of Elbow Cay



Thursday 16 January 2014

January 12, 2014

Our first full day at Bluff House Marina in Green Turtle Cay started out sunny and warm.  We met some of the people that helped us get tied up, in the dark the night before.  One couple looked very familiar and when we talked to them we realized that we had met in Fernandina Beach during Hurricane Sandy in October of 2012.  In the afternoon we hiked to the ocean beach, which looked beautiful (picture postcard)  but the waves were big and we were worried about undertow, so we didn’t go in.  Later in the evening the front that was forecasted, arrived, the winds picked up, the temperature went down and the rain started.  This kept us tied to the dock and limited as to what we were able to see and do for three days.

Thursday, the winds started to ease and change direction and we were finally able to dinghy into the village of New Plymouth.  We explored the shops and tried to buy some provisions.  The prices are very high for some items such as paper towels, up to $6.00 for a single roll, but other items such as  fresh baked bread is cheaper than the grocery store brands.  The supply ship comes in only once a week and we were trying to shop the day before it arrived, so we weren’t very successful.  The trip to town was fun, exploring the small pastel coloured shops, talking to the people, and dealing with the laid back attitudes.  

By Friday morning everyone was talking about moving farther south.  There is one obstacle between us and the southern Cays of the Abacos and it is the Whale Channel.  The water between Great Abaco Island and the Cays have silted in, so that deep draft vessels have to go out in the Atlantic through the Whale Cut and then come in south of the sandbar.  If the winds are from the wrong direction, this channel is susceptible to a rage sea condition (breaking waves all the way across).  We decided to anchor off New Plymouth Friday night and go have a look at the Whale Cay Channel early Saturday morning.  We had a report from another boater before we left that it was being well behaved, with only 3 to 5 foot swells, and no breaking waves, so we decided to go.  The winds were only about 5 knots when we left and the trip through the Cut was uneventful. But by the time we reached the southern edge of the sandbar, the winds were picking up and we saw up to 29 knots before we finally arrived in Marsh Harbour.  As we arrived at the anchorage in Marsh Harbour we were met by our friends from Quality Time in their Dinghy and they showed us where to anchor. What was really nice was being invited for supper that night on their boat as we were both really tired after the trip.


The following morning we had our first opportunity to listen to the Abacos Cruisers’ Net.  They read the local weather report for the area, and people out on the water will provide detailed conditions they are observing at the time.  They also let you know events happening throughout the Abacos and a lot of the local businesses get on the radio and promote themselves.  Marsh Harbour has a grocery store very similar to what we are used to in Canada, called Maxwell’s, and we were able to replace our fresh fruits, vegetables, and other items.  It seems strange, by Canadian standards, that going to a grocery store can be the highlight of your day, but it’s a real treat to find most of the items, that you want, all in one location.        

The main road crossing Green Turtle Cay

Coco Bay on Green Turtle Cay

High winds and waves on Atlantic Ocean beach
Green Turtle Cay

Shops in New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay 

 Dinghy dock New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay

Anchorage at Marsh Harbour, Great Abaco Island, Bahamas

Wednesday 8 January 2014

January 5, 2014

The morning of December 30th, with less than 10 knots of wind and calm seas, we headed east out the Inlet.  The Gulf Stream was very well behaved and was what some sailboaters would call a “trawler day” (flat seas and light breezes).  These conditions suited us perfectly for our first crossing of the Gulf Stream.  On the west side of the Gulf Stream the wind picked up and we had a nice sail, the rest of the way to Old Bahama Bay Resort Marina, West End, Grand Bahama Island.  Ten and a half hours later, we were tied to a dock, completing our goal of building the boat and sailing to the Bahamas.  

The Old Bahama Resort Marina in May 1976 was the location of the Grand Bahama Hotel, where we came for our honeymoon.  We wanted to see what it looked like now and the village of West End.  The Grand Bahama Hotel was bulldozed years ago and is approximately where the marina is located now.  We biked into West End, as we did years ago, to see what changes had taken place since 1976.  Back then it was a cute little village with brightly coloured buildings, with a few small shops.  It hasn’t faired well.  In about 2005 two hurricanes, within weeks of each other, struck West End and the community has still not recovered from that event.  In spite of this, the people are as happy, friendly, and helpful, as we remembered.  The future is looking better for West End as a failed resort development is being resurrected, this will bring a lot of new jobs in the construction and running of this resort.   

The day after we arrived, another cold front came through, preventing us from leaving.  This was not a bad thing, since it was New Years Eve.  We were invited for champagne and chocolates on a boat we knew from Indiantown, along with another couple.  After visiting for awhile, we all decided to check out the band outside the restaurant.  It was really bad and we started to head back to our boats.   On the way back, Dave stopped to talk to a young guy who was part of a Junkanoo demonstration.  He showed us his costume and explained about the significance of Junkanoo.  It goes back to the slave days when the slaves would receive a box of new clothes the day after Christmas and parade around showing off their new clothes.  The costumes they individually make, can take up to 3 months to create from cardboard and paper mache and can cost as much as a thousand dollars.  These costumes are worn for about 3 hours and then dismantled and the process starts again for the next year’s Junkanoo.  We decided to come back and watch the parade at 11pm.  We were glad we did...the costumes were spectacular!  Some day we’ll have to go Freeport and see the main parade where there’s thousands of people dressed in their own colourful creations.  

The following morning, New Year’s Day, we had a local guy come to our dock, selling fresh lobster.  We bought two to try to cook for supper that night and they turned out pretty good.  The people in the boat next to us had gone out to a reef, spear fishing and came back with several lobsters and reef fish and proceeded to clean them on the dock.  Their boat was equipped with blue lights on the bottom  these lights attracted a lot of small fish and in combination with the blood and guts, they’d thrown in the water, it attracted two 7 to 8 foot Bull Sharks.  It was quite the show, the Bull Sharks got agitated and hit the swim ladder on their boat and bumped the bow of our dinghy out of the water a couple times .

The weather was not supposed to get any better during the next couple of days, so we used this time to get ready for the next weather window... fueling the boat, laundry, and trying to re-stock some of our supplies.  This involved riding bikes into West End to visit three grocery stores.  Another cruiser had described them as a poorly stocked Seven Eleven stores.  We weren’t able to get much but we did meet Moses, the best fisherman in West End and his friend, Charles on the step of the liquor store (they hadn’t quite finished celebrating their New Year’s holiday).  

There was a small weather window starting Saturday morning.  They were calling for winds of 10 to 15 knots from the east, not great but would allow us to get out before the next window a week away.  We untied our lines and headed to the Indian Cay Channel.  The Indian Cay Channel used to have poles down the centre of the channel marking the deeper water, these have been missing since 2006.  To go through here we had to wait for high tide and use the way points on our GPS/chart plotter and depth sounder.  We had about 7-10 feet at high tide and it took about an hour to travel the length of it.  On the east side of this reef we were on the Bahamas Banks and we had 10 to 14 feet of water  all the way to Great Sale Cay.  We arrived at Great Sale Cay and dropped the anchor just as it was getting dark, that left enough of the day for a quick supper and to bed.  


It would have been nice to explore Great Sale Cay, but the next cold front was supposed to come Monday, so we were up at first light and left and turned south to Green Turtle Cay.  As we travelled down the Sea of Abaco we could see a lot of the Cays that we had read about in the guide books in the distance.  There are endless areas where you could spend time exploring here.  We arrived at White Sound in Green Turtle Cay at sunset and low tide.  The trip in the channel was a bit unnerving as the water is crystal clear and very shallow (saw 5’8” on depth sounder, we need 5’6”).  The docking at Bluff House Marina was far from our best, we were not prepared for the style of dock ( 4 posts) and tying up after dark.  We were so tired at the end of the day we had quick showers, a really nice dinner at their restaurant and drinks (Tranquil Turtles).  This finished our day.

Leaving Lake Worth Inlet for the Bahamas

Junkanoo costumes New Years Eve
Junkanoo Wanttabe

Lobster delivered to the dock Old Bahama Bay Marina

Police Station in West End, Grand Bahama Island 



December 29, 2013

We are in Lake Worth, Florida and people back home think that we should have nothing to complain about, it is hot and there is nothing to shovel!!  But it is hard to sit and wait for the weather to provide us with an opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream to reach our goal.  We have developed a pattern of spending time at anchor in Lake Worth, doing odd jobs on the boat, provisioning at the nearby grocery store and then eating half the provisions that we bring back to the boat.  There are about 50 to 60 boats sitting here all doing the same thing and we have met several new couples.  Our house batteries have not been performing as well as Dave thought they should and we have been going into Old Port Cove Marina, nearby every 5 or 6 days to recharge overnight.  We used these visits to take advantage of laundry facilities, showers, internet access, the courtesy van, and pump out.  

On December 21st we moved Time 2 Go to the Lake Worth Inlet anchorage so that we would be prepared for a weather window on the 23rd.  The winds were about 16 knots out of the south and there’s a very strong tidal current in this area, which made for a very uncomfortable couple of nights.  By the evening of  December 22nd, it was obvious that we would not be spending Christmas in the Bahamas.  We were a little disappointed.   As we prepared to head back to Lake Worth anchorage, Anne on the sailboat ‘Quality Time’ called and invited us to a pot luck Christmas dinner on their boat.  It wasn’t what we had envisioned but we got to spend Christmas with 3 other couples who were literally and figuratively in the same boat!  We had a great meal and Dave had bought me a birthday cake, so we had that for dessert.  It was fun.  

The batteries are still not holding a charge the way Dave would like, and he is worried about having troubles with them in the Bahamas.  We headed back into Old Port Cove Marina again Boxing Day this time to arrange for new batteries. They arrived the next morning and Dave installed them and we headed back out to the anchorage to our Lake Worth routines .


On December 29th we moved back south to the Lake Worth Inlet anchorage for another possible weather window the next day.  We left after lunch and joined a convoy of sailboats all with the same plan in mind. This was going to be the weather window or we were heading south, we were NOT going back to the Lake Worth anchorage anytime soon!!

The dinghy beach at Lake Worth Anchorage

The fleet waiting in Lake Worth to cross to the Bahamas

Christmas dinner on Quality Time